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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.